Jiuzhaikou (九寨溝) Left Us Speechless And Breathless !

Well, well - after years of procrastinations,  pointless debates, futile discussions, useless excuses over all matters large and trivial about mountain sickness, horrendous crowds, possible earthquakes, suitability of seasons, remote location and so on - we at last, made it to this beautiful part of China - Jiuzhaikou (九寨溝). And what a stunner ! We had all too often heard people use the description "now that's what I would call a Jiuzhaikou color" to exclaim any out-of-this-world scenes of lakes, lagoons and rivers. Now, we would not hesitate to do like-wise ! The patchworks of chaotic colors of algae-filled turquoise lagoons and mineral-rich rivers set against a background of Autumn golden, crimson and violet leaves would leave any jaded travellers speechless ! 

These water ways covering acres of land had all been fed through one of Mother Nature's best creation of surface- and underground-water systems; hence the waters that filled the moody lakes, joined up into streams, stumbled into rock pools, roared down as elegant waterfalls and formed shallow beaches had continuously been filtered and cleansed, the result of these filtering processes over millennia would become our piece of paradise on Earth - Jiuzhaikou !

We flew in from Chengdu on an early morning flight and touched down on the third highest airport in China, Jiuzhai Huanglong Airport, located at an altitude of over 3,440m ! Phew ! As Sichuan Province could be described as a rice bowl, this small but modern airport was located on the rim of this rice bowl. Luckily, a local mini bus quickly whisked us away (gradually down the rice bowl a bit to 2,900m) and we shopped for our beds near the entrance of Jiuzhaikou (溝口) and even managed to get accustomed to the dizzying height by taking a power stroll around the township of Zhang Zha (漳扎鎮). Thankfully on a week day and almost off-season, we did not find the "horrendous crowds" we had at first feared, but quite a gentile mountain village welcoming us.

I would no longer keep you from the stunning photos below, suffice to say that, we loved the place so much that we went in to the National Park a second time two days later. By spreading our visit over two days over the almost 60km length of Jiuzhaikou, we had ample time to take in all the view points as well as taking mega-long strolls along the plank ways which offered us close-up, different but equally beautiful vistas. As Jiuzhaikou was shaped like the alphabet "Y" with each segment covering around 20km, we made good use of the Park's green buses when our tired limbs cried for help. We stayed each day until almost closing time and our camera battery died of thirst and hunger. The colors, vistas and atmosphere of Jiuzhaikou would definitely stay in our memory for a very long time !

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The Nine Tibetan Villages Of Jiuzhaikou (九寨溝之寨)

Since eons ago, there had been nine Tibetan settlements/forts/villages in this beautiful part of China - Jiuzhaikou (九寨溝). Yeh, these lucky villagers had Jiuzhaikou all to themselves - farming, weaving, raising cattles, dating, getting married, bringing up kids, passing their O-Levels, going down the pubs, clubbing, that sort of thing; basically enjoying this piece of paradise on Earth for generations. Then one day, some clever dudes from the local government thought : hang on, we could charge passers-by a fee for taking beautiful pictures of these stunning rock pools, waterfalls, pristine rain forests, reed lakes, snow-capped mountains ! 

And there you have it, in 1984 Jiuzhaikou officially opened its doors and had since become one of THE premier destinations in China, hosting around 12,000 visitors per day during high seasons - truly a tourist hot spot (no kidding man...). This had been especially true during Autumn when the local fauna turned to a patchwork of crimson, liquid golden and fiery violet - see my next Blog entry for a few stunning photos. We visited two of these Tibetan villages (則查洼寨 and 樹正寨) and we were pleasantly rewarded not so much by the villagers selling us soft drinks but by the very original style and decoration of their houses, stupas and the way they pretty much went about their own businesses. I even managed to ask for permission to take a photo (below) of one family's pet dog - a massive Tibetan Mastiff (藏獒) !

 

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On Our Way To Western Sichuan (川西) - Ya' An (雅安) - Kang Ding (康定) - Mugecuo (木格措)

Reaching Ya' An (雅安) in Western Sichuan (川西) was a breeze as our flight from Shenzhen (深圳) touched down in Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport (成都 雙流國際機場 ) and we caught a direct 2 hours' bus from the airport. Ya' An was a pleasant town with loads of tea houses plying their trade along the misty Qingyi River (青衣江) with its centre of attraction being the Gallery Bridge (廊橋) - currently being restored. We caught a glimpse of the bridge and could imagine that it could be very beautiful when the restoration was finished. Ya' An was a convenient stopover for one night on our way to the main event in this part of Sichuan - Kang Ding (康定) where a single lane B-Road would snake itself precariously along the neck of the Sichuan Basin mountains.

Apart from being a very beautiful town at the confluence of two roaring rivers (雅拉河) and (折多河), the town also had a raw frontier feel to it as Kang Ding was a main stop between the Tibetan highlands and the Sichuan Basin (四川盆地) on the Tea Horse Route (茶馬古道) in ancient times. Kang Ding of course, achieved fame through the widely-known folklore love song (康定情歌 - 跑馬溜溜的山上) which everyone in China knew how to sing since the age of five ! The star attraction in Kang Ding was the beautiful Mugecuo (木格措) National Park which was named after the highland lake of the same name, located about 30 km from the city centre. We took a mini-cab through some remote Han (漢) and Tibetan (藏) villages to find this national park in pristine conditions - about 50 people (initially) in the whole park as it was low season and we experienced all 4 seasons within our 7 hour's stay. Yeh - flurry wintry snow, hot summer sun, spring time breeze and autumnal red and golden leaves; not forgetting, we had to quickly adapt to the highland altitude of exceeding 3,000m ! A most fun (and breathless) day out !
 
 

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